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July 2008 Newsletter Feature Article Peonies survive because they are tough but there can be many reasons why they don’t thrive. Most reasons are related to:
Understand how these affect your peony and you are well on your way to growing peonies that not only survive, they thrive potentially for decades. Buying Peonies
When to buy has a lot to do with when to plant - which we’ll talk about below. Suffice it to say however that peonies are best planted in early fall so it makes sense to buy them then. Peony growers dig their peonies in the fall. Once dug and divided one of two things usually happens to the resulting divisions:
Peonies can certainly be stored bare root over winter in climate-controlled facilities. Problems can arise however when the bare root plants are removed from these facilities and sent to retail outlets where they can be subjected to less than idea conditions for extended periods of time. My recommendation is to purchase fresh bare root plants from a reputable grower in the early fall. Don’t wait to order your peonies until fall though. Peonies are very popular these days and most growers sell out of at least some varieties by mid summer. When you know what you want, order it and reserve your plants. This way you benefit from the full choice of varieties available and your peonies will likely arrive early in the fall. Where to Buy Here's why:
Specialist nurseries are however not ubiquitous and are not necessarily in your neighborhood. The good news is that peonies are easily shipped in the fall so don’t be afraid to search far and wide. They are in my opinion the perfect mail order plant for fall shipping. I ship across Canada, the US and Europe and have bought plants from as far away as New Zealand. I can honestly count on one hand the number of times I have had plants damaged in transport. I recommend however that you buy from a grower who will guarantee the plants will arrive in perfect condition just in case… There are several North American nurseries specializing in peonies (including my own…). Try a Google search with the words ‘peony nursery’ and you will find several. Check out what some customers thought of these nurseries via The Garden Watchdog on Dave’s Garden. http://davesgarden.com/gwd/advanced.php?category=20&submit=Go Check out the listing for my own nursery: http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/1721/ Last time I looked the site listed 156 companies who sold peonies. Careful however as not all those companies listed are actual growers and obviously not all customers bother to send feedback to this site. It is however an interesting starting point in your search for ‘a peony grower with a good reputation for quality and customer service’. Peony Grades When you buy herbaceous or intersectional peonies you should know what size of division you are buying rather than the age of the plant it came from. If a catalogue does not clearly specify division size, I suggest you ask. The standard terminology is 1-2 eye, 2-3 eye and 3-5 eye divisions i.e. divisions size is determined by the number of buds visible on a division. Small divisions are cheaper and have the potential to eventually make mature plants but are more susceptible to environmental stresses and will certainly take longer to produce flowers. Survival comes before thriving for these guys. A 3-5 eye division represents the best investment. It is more likely to survive any stresses the first year or so and is more likely to produce flowers the first or second year i.e. it has the potential to be a mature thriving plant more quickly than a smaller division. A good division will have a good balance between crown material and tuberous roots. A large hunk of crown covered with buds but with just one tuberous root is going to have a tough time growing.
3-5 Eye Root Division
A very few garden centres buy bare root peonies in the fall and pot them up in the fall for sale the following spring. If properly handled i.e. large containers, good drainage etc. these peonies will make decent root growth and have a good chance of successful transfer to their new gardens the following spring. These however are the exception to what is usually found in a garden centre and not the rule. Ask what size of division is in the container and ask when was it planted. Planting Peonies
The earlier you plant them in the fall the more time they have to grow roots. September to mid October is the ideal time in my area. The downside of late planting is that the peonies do not have much chance to grow new roots and they face summer with an underdeveloped root system. The problem is less if spring is cool because they will grow some roots in cool spring soils. If spring is hot and dry the plants are stressed and though they usually survive, their overall development is slowed down somewhat. They are again hanging in survivors as opposed to thriving in their new home. It is however impossible to make a blanket statement saying spring planting is doomed to failure. Growing conditions are so very different from one region to another. Some areas have long cool springs, others excessively wet falls. There are weather differences from one end of my village to the other! No way am I comfortable saying never plant in spring. It is however true that peonies are dug and divided in the fall so the freshest plant material is available at this time and it is true that they grow the majority of their new roots in the fall. From there one must make one’s own decisions when it comes to planting. Remember peonies are tough and they will survive less than optimal treatment. In my opinion however the goal should be a thriving plant not just a surviving one and for me fall planting has always given the best results. Where to Plant Soil The worst thing you can do on clay soil is to dig a big hole and fill it with good new soil. Essentially this creates a bathtub. As water percolates down through the new soil it reaches the layer of clay at the bottom and can’t go anywhere. Water fills up the hole much like a bathtub and the drainage around the peony is even worse than it would have been without the new soil. Mixing in good compost with the original soil in a wider area does a decent job of improving drainage around peonies in heavy soils. If on the other hand your soil is sandy, drainage will likely be good but fertility will be low. Adding good quality organic matter initially will help ensure the peonies have access to the nutrients they need. You could actually go so far as to add a few shovels full of clay. If you are planting peonies in an existing perennial bed with good garden soil count yourself lucky, you don’t need to add anything special for the peonies.
Intersectional peonies will tolerate a little more shade but remember all shade is not equal, dappled light under a high tree canopy is much better than the dense shadow caste by a building. Drainage When the drainage is poor a peony will often languish for years before finally succumbing to root rot. I often suspect that poor drainage is the cause of poor performance by many peonies. Essentially the plant lays down new tissue at the rate at which it rots away and it just sort of hangs in there for years doing very little, and certainly not thriving. Pay very careful attention to where the peony is to be planted if you have heavy soil. Planting Depth In a nutshell the uppermost bud or eye should be about 2 inches below the soil (1 inch in warmer areas such as USDA Hardiness Zone 8).
If I’m faced with a mature peony that is definitely not thriving and I can’t see an obvious problem such as poor drainage or insufficient direct sunlight, I will start thinking about soil fertility. As the nutritional requirements of peonies are not well documented (other than the general statement of requiring fertile soils…) there is little choice but to use a broad brush approach to a possible soil fertility problem. (remember this is looking for a reason behind poor growth and not a blanket recommendation to fertilize) In the past I have found what I’ve come to call the Miracle Gro diet useful. Starting in early to mid-August, give the peony a good application of Miracle Gro All Purpose Water Soluble Plant Food (mixed per the manufacturers instructions). Repeat the application 2 more times at 2 week intervals. In the early spring give the plant another 2 or 3 applications again at 2 week intervals. If the plant’s performance improves you can assume that your peony has been undernourished and need to embark on a soil fertility improvement plan for the long term. An annual top dressing of good quality compost in the fall is often a useful strategy to improve soil fertility over the long run and you may indeed need to resort to a regular application of fertilizer. I started using Miracle Gro because it has a number of micro nutrients as well as the macro nutrients of N, P and K and have kept using it because the results have been good. Other similar products may well work just as well.
Conclusion Don’t settle for a peony that just survives, they can be so much more! |
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© 2010 La Pivoinerie D'Aoust |